Dave Barrans

Eindhoven, Barcelona and Sheffield

2011-07-06T14:39:00.004+01:00

First up I qualified for the final in 4th place at Eindhoven and slipped to 6th place. In the final i had nothing left even though i felt like i was capable of doing all four, i only topped the first problem. This photo sums up my final quite well.The following weekend was Barcelona, where i qualified for the semi finals and finished 11th but should have been in the final really after i missed a foothold on one problem doing it 2nd go and fell victim to a stupid out of bounds tape on an other. I was pleased to perform well in such horrendously hot conditions, i don't know who's idea it was to hold a competition in a non air conditioned building in the middle of summer but they should be shot as the are so many cool places in Barcelona it could have been attracting a large audience too, but it wasn't so no one really saw it!
Finally It was the home event in Sheffield at cliffhanger, where i hoped to climb well......unfortunately i climbed well and felt strong but only topped three problems falling off the top of the other 2 leaving me 16th in a very strong group. I guess that's the way it goes sometimes in such a strong field 7 of this years finalists did not qualify! The semi final problems also look like they would have suited me too, a very frustrating weekend.

Ohh well a weekend off this week(well lots of work) before heading out to Arco for the World championships where I'm also going to do the lead, which should be fun.

Font Videos

2011-02-27T22:24:00.004Z

Below are two videos from my trip to Font, Karma and Gecko (assis) which is apparently 8b+ my first of the grade :-)

Karma

Gecko assis

Karma and Gecko (assis)

2011-02-15T11:51:00.010Z

I've just got back from 2 weeks in Font, where i did the mega classic Karma (8a+) and the sit start to Gecko (8b) my first 8b in the forest. I also did Rubis Sur L'Ongle, La Gaule a reach dependent prow that i didn't think i had the span for. I was also getting close to Satan i Helvete but ran out of dry weather and skin!

Here is a pic of La Gaule, i am currently editing together some video footage so watch this space.

2010-09-14T21:52:00.003+01:00

While i've not been posting any thing on here i've mostly been out doing a few routes including Power ranger at Malham, my first 8b+. I've not been on it for about a year and sent it on my first redpoint of the day, hitting all the holds wrong through the crux, but still managing to get to the top! i guess that's the way it goes sometimes, never let go!

Amongst doing a few routes i've also been training for the European championships in Innsbruck starting on Thursday, it will be web cast here, withe semis and finals on Saturday.

a few bits and pieces

2010-07-26T09:49:00.004+01:00

My finger is now well on the mend just in time for the final round of the world cup in Munich at the weekend which should be web cast here. Qualifiers on Friday, semi's and final on Sunday.
I'm then heading to Frankenjura for a week of sport climbing.
The last few weeks i've been sport climbing a bit, I did Full Tilt at Kilnsey first red point and started working All Out.
I have also been route setting at Harrogate climbing centre, resetting the bouldering last week, here is a video of a few of the problems.
I also set the upstairs bouldering room at Manchester too.

the frustrations of finger injuries

2010-07-05T16:18:00.004+01:00

Well the Sheffield world cup was extremely frustrating. The finger i tweaked at city bloc a few weeks ago and aggravated last weekend in Eindhoven was very sore while crimping, which was fine on the first three problems, but on the fourth, a very fingery vickers creation it proved too much for my weakened finger. The last problem wasn't much better, leaving me with three tops in four attempts. and a very frustrating 28th place. At least the rest of the Brits did us proud with three men and four women getting into the semi-finals, and the team came 2nd!
Here's a pic of me making some shapes on problem 3.

I've now got a few weeks before the final world cup round in Munich to sort my finger out and do some training and some work.

Sheffield world cup this weekend

2010-07-02T10:30:00.003+01:00

This weekend sees the uk round of the bouldering world cup, Qualifiers are on saturday, semi's and finals on sunday. It is being held at Cliffhanger in Sheffield, so come on down and support the British team. If you can't get down there, it is being webcast too here

Eindhoven world cup

2010-06-29T10:35:00.002+01:00

After taking 15th place at Vail i had a few weeks to work on a few things before the next round in Eindhoven, mostly a bit of strength work and take part in the City bloc comp (bloc party) where i successfully defended my title, flashing all three of the final problems. It was good to start feeling strong again.

Before Eindhoven i had a long rest my last climbing session being on the Tuesday, i actually felt good warming up for the qualifiers. I topped out three of the five problems and could have done the fifth but got a split tip on my first attempt! But i qualified well for the semis in 9th. Warming up for the semis i felt relaxed and strong, but had a big hole in my finger! i tapped up and told my self it didn't matter and i could pull on the holds anyway. I topped out two problems in three attempts, which to my surprise was enough to make my first final of the season. Stu very nearly made it in too, which probably would have been a first for GB but was pushed out at the last minute by Ondra.
I decided i was just going to enjoy the final, even though i felt tired and my skin was very sore. I topped the first two problems but ran out of steam on the third even though i would have backed my self to do it. I was so tired on the last problem and it was probably the hardest problem too. I finished 5th in the best final of the season in front of a very large and noisy dutch crowd.

here's me after flashing the first final problem. Thanks to Heiko for the photo.
I can't wait for Sheffield next weekend.

Vienna World cup

2010-06-03T21:18:00.002+01:00

Last weekend was the 2nd world cup round in Vienna.
I scrapped through the qualifiers in 17th for the semi finals, where i always seem to climb better than the qualifiers. I topped the hardest problem on my second go and got all four bonus's in five attempts, putting me in a slightly frustrating 8th, just missing the final (if only i had done that problem on my first attempt!). I was still quite pleased considering the frustrating off season i've had.
Stew made in to the final with 2 tops and came in fourth.

Swiss world cup

2010-05-26T13:23:00.004+01:00

The Swiss world cup was a bit frustrating, so close to making the semi finals but not quite on a slightly strange and reachy set of problems, it was good to see Stu climbing well and be so close to making the final.
Off to Vienna this weekend for round two which is being broadcast live here.

Swiss bound

2010-05-12T22:03:00.005+01:00

I am just about to head out to Griefensee near Zurich for the 2010 World Cup as a member of the British bouldering team. This is the first round of the year in a series of seven, including one at Cliffhanger in Sheffield. There are seven of us going, so wish us all luck and keep track of the results at http://www.climbingworldcup-switzerland.com/

one or two things

2010-04-20T10:32:00.003+01:00

Plywood masters

Last Saturday saw the annual Plywood masters at Boulder UK, After the qualifiers i was in first place, but with Nige looking strong and Ned always capable of pulling something out the bag the pressure was still on!
I flashed all five of the final problems to take the title for the second year in a row.
It was nice to feel strong in a comp again and am now motivated to train for the first round of the world cup in a three weeks time.

Harrogate

Monday and Tuesday i was at the recently opened Harroagte climbing centre to do the first re-set of the bouldering wall so there are now 50 new problems to test yourselves on, get down there its well worth a visit.

A bit of trad pottering!

Saturday i decided to dust off the trad head and went off to Burbage south to find some cooler temperatures and found the conditions to be really good, having warmed up on a few easy routes we did the knock, then i on-sighted Nosferatu, which has amazing moves on really positive crimps, a bit like a limestone route really! Then it was down for a classic fight with Goliath, which i found surprisingly easy, and not much of a fight at all if you just go for it! Finally the draw of Messiah was too much it looked like my kind of climbing and decided to go for the flash(nearly on-sight but it was well chalked and i have seen video footage a long time ago so not much help from that!) Turns out it was my style as i powered through the crux some of the best moves i've done in a long time. Mr Messenger was on hand to take a few photos too.
Not a bad day really E6 on-sight, E7 flash and not a pad in sight!

Manchester

Yesterday i set the downstairs bouldering area at Manchester climbing centre so more problems to test your monkey genes on.

Skymasters

2010-04-01T12:14:00.004+01:00

The third skymasters was last weekend, thankfully the spinning planet of doom was now fixed meaning more of a straight race across the suspended boulders in the sky. Saturdays Qualifiers saw me land up third fastest with a good draw for sundays knockout rounds.
I seem to have been fighting the dreaded man flu for a week or two now, and it seemed to affect my ability to campus through moves, not good when its quite often the quickest way through most of the skymasters course! I managed to speed my way through to the semi's with my feet on, where i met eventual winner Rob Mackenzie who proved just too young and quick, leaving me in the climb off for third against Adam Watson, a particularly rangy beast from the north east! I lost the climb off by just one hold in a very close race finishing in quite possibly the worst place in a comp 4th! All still a great fun though.

The CWIF

2010-03-23T11:22:00.002Z

Saturdays Cwif was a mixed affair for me, qualifiers went well, finishing in third place for the semi-finals. The semi's where incredibly frustrating as i felt strong but only managed to top out one problem, finishing in 11th. I miss read the second and just did not feel like i had enough power endurance on the third or enough recovery for the last problem. I'm not sure whether i was not fit enough or i just hadn't eaten enough during the day. But at least i now have something to work on in the five weeks before the first round of the world cup in Switzerland.

MCC new problems

2010-03-16T10:34:00.003Z

Finished filling in the problems on the bouldering wall at Manchester climbing centre yesterday, after fridays final bouldering league. Loads of new problems up to test you all out.
The leading ladder also started on saturday so dust off that rope and get leading.

Font video

2010-03-14T20:53:00.001Z

Finished editing the footage from font check it out

Fontainebleau

2010-03-02T09:35:00.003Z

Well font could best be described as mostly moist and very frustrating as it only rained at night with the days being nice. Still managed to do a few things though, mostly on the same day. The highlight being Beaux Quartiers at Rocher Bouligny, one that i,ve tried a few times but always been thwarted by wetness before. So after despatching that i thought i'd try the moves on Gecko, Five minutes later i topped it out, almost slightly disappointed at how easily it went, but still a great feeling to do such a good problem although probably only 8a in my book.
I'm currently editing together some video footage from this trip and my last one in October, to create my own font four, which will hopefully go up on Vimeo sometime in the next week.

Back to setting this week with a lead ladder and the final round of the Manchester bouldering league to set in two days and then some last minute training before the CWIF next weekend.I seem to be climbing well considering quite a long running finger injury hampering my training plans, but that seems to be better now so fingers crossed for next weekend.

finger injury's christmas and work!

2010-02-14T20:35:00.005Z

well that just about sum's up my last two months, after hearing my finger go crack at the start of December it has been a frustrating few months of not really training, coupled with a good bout of man flu after Christmas which just would not go away! The finger seems to be coming good again now so i can get back to pre-season training.
January seems to have been dominated by some much needed work, with two lines on the main wall at Manchester followed by a couple of weeks at the new wall in Harrogate due to open next week, and then the February bouldering competition at Manchester, meaning a whole new batch of problems down at MCC from tomorrow night when I've finished filling in the gaps.

I've even managed to sneak a few days out on the rock and don't seem to have lost too much of the strength I'd gained before Christmas, just a little finger strength. Got a nice day out on Wednesday last week at Trowbarrow, flashed Iron man stand up, 7c, and the did the sitter 3rd go after a frustrating slip at the start, originally given 8a, but probably 7c+, see vid below.

Off to Font for a week on Tuesday, so hopefully might finally do Kehops.......but probably not as there has been shed loads of snow out there! watch this space

Masterclasses

2009-11-23T12:26:00.004Z

I am now doing masterclasses in association with Manchester climbing centre, the next one is on Sunday the 29th of November.
See my website for further details.

New Website

2009-11-23T12:04:00.004Z

I,ve finally finished my new website, after months of messsing around and cursing internet explorer(anyone who develops web pages will know exactly what i'm on about!)

Two weeks in Font.........and only two days of rain!

2009-10-29T11:19:00.001Z

Just returned from two weeks in font, and finally had some decent weather to wear my skin to the bone in! The first week involved back to back cold sunshine with a good breeze to keep the temps down, unfortunately my index finger split on the first day (it had been threatening to do it for about a week before!) so i maned up anyhow and taped it, still manging De Vita Beata - 8a, Isatis and my first 8a+ in Font with Papillon at Petite Reine, a cool prow/arete which i was probably doing wrong and spent most of my time looking at some areas i had not been to before. Once my finger had heeled it was time to resume battle with Kheops which is still managing to elude me despite having had several days on it, although i did feel more controlled on it this time but still feeling like i should have sent it! I'll get some video footage up next week.
I'm back in the UK for a while, now with a van which has decided to try and kill its gear box, could be very expensive! Anyone got any work?

The summer

2009-10-02T18:36:00.000+01:00

Since a slightly disappointing 2nd at the BBC's missing out on a frustratingly reachy last problem, i have been predominantly sport climbing at Malham, Kilnsey and Pen Trwyn. I'm starting to feel properly fit for the first time in my life, Having onsighted another 8a in the form of Over the Moon Direct at Lower Pen Trwyn, and sent several other 7c+ and 8a's first redpoint, the highlights being Zoolook at Malham, and Vorsprung Durch Technik at Yew Cougar. I even dusted off the trad rack for a perfect sunny day in North Wales to do Right Wall, glad i was fit enough to really enjoy such a class route.
The main focus of the summer, well as focused as i get on sport routes has been Power Ranger at Malham, having had a very frustrating day of redpoints on a hot day in August, falling off after the crux three times on the trot, i decided to leave it alone for a bit, it since having got wet or being too hot to even contemplate. I have also being trying Northern Exposure at Kilnsey, an incredibly bouldery short route, much more my style, here is a vid of a frustratingly close go, where i ended up with the wrong three fingers(back three) in the hold at the top, arrh, 8b+ seems to be very elusive!

slack blogging! world championships

2009-07-24T10:38:00.005+01:00

definatley been a bit slack on the blogging front, especially with everything that has been going on. First up was the world championships held slap bang in the middle of china and no where near any climbing, Xining in the qinghai region to be precise. Qualifiers where held on the tuesday, i felt pretty tired and my legs where really stiff, probably from the travelling, but managed to hall myself up three out of the five problems to qualify for the semis in 19th. With the semi-finals not till saturday i would hopefully manage to recover and do some stretching!........but thursday night saw me reproducing my dinner at a high rate of knots out of both ends! not a pleasant experience. Friday i managed a small plate of dry spagetti for lunch and not much more in the evening leaving me expecting to be last in saturdays semi-final. Saturday morning i felt really strong and light......... for two moves before all energy seemed to desert me! How ever it seemed that my new found pre-comp tatics worked quite well as i did three out of the four problems, coming very close to the fourth one and i'd qualified for the final in fifth place, maybe it was th jam that made me feel at home!
So to the final, i felt much less nervous than i had felt in Vienna, probably as i didn't expect anything.
I did all four problems but in less attempts than the two Russians leaving me in third place, although in hind-sight i should have flased them all and been world champion, but thats comps for you.
Here's some pics of me in the final,

So that was the world championships, a totally unexpected result, and Britains first medal at a world championship, awesome!

World cup - Eindhoven

2009-06-16T11:49:00.004+01:00

i have just returned from the final round of the world cup in Eindhoven. On reflection 25th isn't bad considering i've been fighting a bought of man flu for the past week, leaving me feeling pretty drained and having no power on the steeper problems. i earned a few more valuble points and finished in 21st place overall, not too bad considering i only did 3 out of the five rounds.
It was awsome to see ned make the final, his first and the second British finalist in two comps! Heres Ned in the final.

I now have just over a week to stop the flow of liquid coming out of my nose (nice!) before flying out to China for the world championships.

final time

2009-06-01T13:22:00.005+01:00

Finally i climbed to my potential in a world cup semi-final, to make it through to my first world cup final, in first place! Unfortunately in getting there i pulled a muscle in my shoulder, making it a real effort to lock off on my left arm, though it didn't seem to effect me too much, that was more due to very thin skin and wet finger tips, making it very difficult to stay on the tiny crimps involved in the 2nd and 3rd problems. It was slightly disapointing to finish in 6th, having climbed so well in the semi's, although i still enjoyed it, thanks to Jamie for a great set of problems.
Here's a pic of me in the qualifiers.

World cup - Vienna

2009-05-27T13:59:00.003+01:00

Just about to fly out to Vienna(Wien) for the third round of the bouldering world cup, my 2nd of the season. i am hopefull for this one on the back of my last three comps, plus the fact that Britains Jamie Cassidy is the chief route setter, so no excuses about the style of problem.

8a onsight

2009-05-26T11:08:00.003+01:00

On sunday i onsighted Kleptomania at hollywood bowl (Giggleswick North), my first 8a onsight in the uk, i onsighted 8a in Kalymnos last September.

Three comps....three weekends!

2009-05-19T21:01:00.007+01:00

1st up was Rd 2 of the bouldering world cup and my first of the season, i felt strong and fit going into it and training had been going well. Qualifiers were a nerve wracking affair with the field split into 2 groups so the top ten going through from each group. i finished 9th in my group having comfortably flashed 4 out of 5 problems. Semi finals did not go so well, two very wide problems and one that no one looked even close to doing, although that was the one i felt closest to doing! oh well it was good to make the semi's again especially in such a strong field.

Next up was an open international in Kitzbuhel, part of the Austrian cup. I felt bad during the qualifiers, probably down to nerves at the free for all format with as many goes as you liked on the problems! Thankfully i made it through to the semi's the next day. Warming up i felt much better than the previous day, thats what rest days do for you! I proceeded to flash two problems out of the four, good enough to put me in 2nd place and the final. I still felt strong warming up, if a little nervous it only being my 2nd international final. The first problem was the easiest, everyone did it, although not first go, i managed to flash it and felt good and relaxed me a little bit. The 2nd problem was a horrendous pull onto the slab using a razor for one hand only and bad feet. Everyone seemed to have a bad time on this one, i came out brushed the hold and it felt good, the move felt easy, that go, as i dropped the top and could not pull on again! The third problem was another hard one and i knew by the crowds reaction that no one had topped it. A few failled attempts and a quick rest i pulled on with 20 seconds to go, the knee slid perfectly into the knee bar and i grabbed the penultimate hold, but i could feel the familiar friend "pump" setting in and launched for the last hold/volume and to my surprise latched it, i was in the lead.
The final problem came round far too quickly and i knew that i needed it but only had one go left in my arms. I could feel the crowd willing me up it or maybe that was just the small British contingent! i was agonisingly close to latching the last hold, but it was not to be, and i ended up in a slightly disapointing 5th but had great fun getting there. Here's a video of the third problem in the final. There's more videos of the other problems on youtube.

The final comp was the Plywood masters at Boulder UK in Blackburn, I greased through the qualifiers in 2nd, and still felt strong going into the final, were i topped all five problems dropping one once. 2nd was Ned who has not been training too much due to his dissertation, would have been nice to have been a bit closer! Finally i had won something, after far too many 2nds to even mention!

Skymasters

2009-03-31T12:33:00.001+01:00

This weekend saw the second skymasters event, so as defending champion i was invited back to defend my crown, although in a very different comp to last year. This years event was termed as speed difficulty, ie climb as fast as possible on lead, across a 14m roof of swinging rotating volumes!
Saturdays qualifiers went well, although my clipping didn't seem to be working too well i qualified in 5th place for Sundays head to head knock outs.
The first knockout against bouldering team member John Partridge, went well, i climbed smoothly and quickly and my clips seemed to be working, bonus! so i posted the fastest time of that round. The quarter finals i came up against Adrian Berry, again all was going well and i was in the lead until disaster struck on the rotating planet, i miss timed the kick getting on to it and oh so painfully rotated too slowly and let Adrian in to take the Semi place (and go on to the final at least!). I was a bit gutted it being the first time i had got that feature wrong, but it was great fun to take part in such a spectacular event, well done to the boys at X1-sports and to James Garden and Shauna Coxsey the eventual winner, good to see the youth doing well.

out and about

2009-03-24T10:32:00.005Z

Mostly been doing a bit of fitness work since the CWIF, linking problems on the bouldering wall and a few routes in there it seems to have paid off. Had a trip to Woodwell, did Nuclear Transplant, a nice bit of 'crabbing' at v12. After warming up on sections of it sent on my third go, slipping out of a tenuous toe hook the first few goes, found some different beta and sent next go. Sean got it on video, i'll get it up as soon as poss. Flashed Not bad Dave too, a nice 7c at Woodwell far right involving a bit of hugging in a roof.
A visit to an unseasonably dry Malham, resulted in a lot of sunbathing for most of the afternoon, until it cooled down a bit, before a quick assault on Magnetic fields, John Dunne's 80's test piece. I sent it on my fifth redpoint after frustratingly fumbling the jug a few times, not bad for my first 8b, i really should try harder on routes!
Anyway its the annual trip to Birmingham this weekend for the second Skymasters. This year its based on speed, head to head races which should be exciting and completely open!

CWIF 09

2009-03-10T14:34:00.004Z

WOW!

what an event, almost the perfect show for competition climbing (would have been perfect if i'd won!)
The qualifiers went well, only failing on one problem, although a few went 2nd or 3rd go, putting me in 3rd place. the lottery of the qualifiers over it was down to pulling hard on the comp wall for the semi's. Warming up again i still felt strong and fresh, it took a few goes to get the measure of the tricky dyno on the first problem, mostly due to the layer of grease on the volume! but nailed it on my fourth go. I then seemed to be in my stride dispatching the typical Percy volumes with ease. the third problem was a lesson in undercuts, which i happen to rather like and so flash number two. The final problem a pumpy quest on undercuts across the roof into a good bit of precarious groove, a quick battle against the pump in the roof an there was non way i was going to drop the groove after that battle, the third flash and i knew it was enough to get in the final, my first international final. Turns out it was more than enough as i qualified in first, bring on the final, i still felt fresh, strong and psyched out of my mind.

First problem was a quick volume wrestle followed by a big dirty press up the groove onto the slab and teeter to the finishing hold, i dispatched first go as did Jerome and Tyler, the final was well and truly on! Second problem, more volume wrestling to a very hard finish, dropped by Tyler and done by Jerome, i got perched on the volume went to set off on the last difficult section and then my hand slipped as i re weighted it, an i was off! a foot pop on my second go at the start , and the third go all went perfectly as i latched the finishing hold with a roar. Down to the last problem , i knew no one had topped it, once again a tricky dyno set up for some campusing on very poor sloping edges, it seemed my fitness had found its limit as pump set in, seems that the man flu did effect me in that i couldn't do quite as much power endurance work as i'd liked.

All looks good for the coming world cup season, nearly taking the scalp of current European champion, i'll take a great deal of confidence from an awesome competition (weather i'd been in it or not) well done to the boys at the works, and the setting team. Congrats to Leah who was even closer than i was to winning the women's, if only she could have matched the last hold!
I'll try and get hold of some photos and once again

WOW!

New photos

2009-03-06T11:06:00.004Z

I have finally got round to uploading photos from font onto my website, thanks to Stu for some awesome shots.
Have mostly been training hard, mixed in with some route setting and am starting to feel the benefits for the CWIF at the works this Saturday, feeling stronger and lighter than ever before! Unfortunately i've picked up a nasty bout of man flu this week, but it doesn't seem to affect my climbing too much. Bring on the Lemsip (other decongestants are available!)

works comp and team training

2009-02-18T09:25:00.003Z

Friday night was the last round of the climbing works bouldering league and the last Percy special problem.
Jordan was the first to the top of the special, on his second go as soon as the comp had started, Jordan being warm from the crag that afternoon, and bouncing from someone finally giving him some sponsorship in the form of mr Moon, about time too i say!
So i plodded on with the rest of the comp treating it as a training session, flashing all 25 problems and the perfect score of 250!
Saturday was team training held at Stockport, with problems set by ex team member the Earl, it wasn't going to be an easy day. The first 5 problems in the morning session were anything but easy, and we worked them in small groups, always a good way of improving (or is that just trying harder, not wanting to be outdone!) followed by another ten problems in the afternoon, left my skin feeling decidedly raw, still not fully recovered from font.
On with Sunday and my fourth and fifth sessions of the weekend, a comp style 5 mins on 5 mins off on six problems, three of which were very hard, the other three being easy. i topped one of the hard ones, annoyingly pissing one of the others after.
The final session involved international final style four problems with four minutes to climb each problem but two minutes observation before to look at all the problems. skin was definitely at a premium, and i seem to suffer on my usual forte of slopey pinches, proving the importance of good skin!
It seem s that my fitness is very good at the minute, i just wish someone would invent spray on skin!

City bloc

2009-02-13T12:55:00.002Z

Visited the newly opened City Bloc wall in Leeds, owned by former British team members, Ben Meeks, Rachael Seymour, Tom Sugden and Martin Smith. It is a nice wall with some really good angles and good problems too. By coincidence Gaz was there too so had a good session climbing with him and Martin. Well worth putting into your regular circuit of walls.

Fontainbleau

2009-02-12T10:57:00.000Z

Amazingly we actually had some good weather in font, i finally did 8a in font, in the form of Neverland, the most ridiculous feature you will ever see and climb on rock, like one of Percy's volume creations at the works, pure mauling! well that was my tactic anyhow. Pic below.

Finally sent a few nemesis problems too, Hypothese, 7c+ and Sale gosse, 7c one that's been driving me mad for years, no upgraded from i hate that problem to doing it several times as its so cool.
I now have some more projects in font, doing the big move on Total Eclipse with damp holds, a move that i thought i would struggle to span and it was full span but still did the move!
Had a morning session on Karma coming frustratingly close, a mere inch from the hold, before racing for the ferry and the carnage of a snow covered southern England.

Got a load of cool photos thanks to Stuart McNeil and his remote flashes, which i will put up on my website soon.

Here's a vid of me being too close to Karma for comfort!

Fontainebleau here i come

2009-01-30T16:00:00.004Z

just about to set off for a week in Fontainebleau, Hopefully we will get some good weather watch this space to see what if anything i get done.

Little women - E7 7a onsight

2009-01-21T11:10:00.004Z

On Saturday I on-sighted Little Women E7 7a at Stanage. I can't comment on the E grade as this was my first E7 and haven't really done anything above E5. Bouldering wise it is about 7b+ and probably one of the best 7b+'s i've done. Thanks to Jordan for bullying me into tying in, might have to do a few more. No photos, was a bit gloomy!

Works comp

2009-01-20T16:18:00.005Z

just realised i've not blogged for a month, been too busy enjoying the mostly good weather! Made some good progress on a few projects in Yorkshire, watch this space. Did Red Baron Roof at shipley glen, i have got a video but it doesn't seem to want to upload :(

anyway back to the works comp, Percy and co decided the recession is hitting so we had to do two problems for half the money this month! I was the first to do the harder problem but ended up in a race with Ryan which he won by a matter of seconds. see ukclimbing for a report.

Works comp and team training

2008-12-15T15:11:00.002Z

Friday night saw th 2nd works comp and it was a roll over on the bonus problem meaning there was £150 to be won. I arrived at 7 having driven from France to find hardly anyone there in the mix for the prize, all i had to do was figure out Percy's deviance and send to glory. the problem turned out to be more of a route, with footless moves on jams! thankfully i like jamming and so after figuring out a few of the moves sent it on my second attempt :)

And so to Newcastle for the second team training of the year at the newly opened climb Newcastle, always good to climb at a new wall. Saturday saw us tackling 15 problems from 7a to 8a, before a fingerboard session with the Earl (well take the piss session!). Sunday saw another 8 problems in the morning, followed by another visit to yesterdays problems plus some others that looked good along the way (the perils of climbing in group of 4 competitive people!)

I felt fit, my main problem being the pain in my finger tips having just spent three weeks on granite! but the body was still willing at the end, and the whole weekend was really positive with everyone climbing well. And would well recomend climb Newcastle as a top venue, nice one Andy and Chris (and Darren)

Cresciano and Chironico and snow

2008-12-13T13:42:00.000Z

Just returned from three weeks in Switzerland, had two days of perfect weather, with barely reaching zero degrees! flashed power ranger - 7b+, just a couple of minging crimps and did Komilator in less than an hour, a really cool tenuous heel hook. Then it snowed and rained for four days, with a day of waiting for things to dry before t was back to sending!
I very nearly flashed the mega classic La Boule at Cresciano, dropping the move to the final good crimp! if only i'd been warmer, and then frustration as i lost how to do the press across.

Stew and Sabby came out to meet us at Chironico, i did No Mysteries 8a+, unfortunately couldn't reach the move of the heel-toe so just had to jump and basically one arm the crimp! definitely worth the plus in my book! The same day i flashed Dr Crimp - 7c not just pulling on minging little crimps as i thought it would be, a really nice problem.

The next day at cresc for a bit of warmth, saw round two of the la boule battle! i new i only had one good try on it due to failing skin, the pressure was on! thankfully i did it on my second attempt of the day, and decided i would spend the rest of the day trying to grow skin!

Back to Chironico, saw a flashes of les doigts vert - 7c+ and Virtruvian man - 7c, before declaring it too cold and going in search of hot chocolate and a weather forecast.
The forecast showed only one more day of good weather and a promising forecast for font, so a long morning was had at cresc, making good progress on La Prou getting my hand over the hold with my foot popping or coming up just short with it sticking! definitely psyched to go back.

European championships

2008-10-13T10:48:00.002+01:00

Heading off to the European champs in Paris starting on Wednesday followed by a few days in font after, should be a good trip especially with stew finally breaking his font cherry!
Feeling vaguely strong after a weeks worth of hard pulling, but feeling a bit held back by a slight bit of man flu hampering my recovery. Just have to go and see what happens i guess.

Kalymnos

2008-10-06T10:24:00.000+01:00

Just returned from two weeks of mind blowing tufa pulling in kalymnos. Good to touch some real dry rock after the horrible summer we've had. Onsighted a couple of 8a's and a shed load of really good 7b+ to 7c+'s. was good to stilll feel fairly fit.
Now i'm back to a week of hard training and reminding myself how to pull hard for the European championships in Paris starting on the 15th of October.

BBC's

2008-07-15T09:47:00.004+01:00

Having had three weeks to train i was feeling in better shape than at any time this year(thank god!) having been struggling with a bit of golfer's elbow. The qualifiers went well, landing up in joint 4th and still feeling fresh for the final.
After watching the women's final, nice one Audrey (go team evolv!) it was into isolation and time to get focused. I was out 4th feeling focused and psyched and flashed the first three problems, but i had a feeling that Stu and Gaz would do the same. I knew that i would need one of the last two problems to stand a chance of winning. I touched the finishing hold on both problems but didn't quite latch them, the last problem because i didn't spot a crucial foot lock! to my surprise Stu didn,t do the last two problems either, but he had qualified better than me. Gaz had had an absolute mare on the first problem and was out of it, and so Ned sneaked in, topping out the last problem to win with four tops in 11 attempts, leaving me in third, awesome effort Ned.

Need to do some training!

2008-06-18T13:57:00.004+01:00

After the disapointment of traveling half way round the world to get one bonus hold in Vail (although the problems were hard) it was back to Fiera for the third world cup in as many weeks. I was a bit more positive for this one the chief route setter being our own Jamie Cassidy.

Well i thought wrong! For the second comp ever i didn't top a single probem! although i did drop the top of three problems! Time for some power endurance training i think.

Here's me about to drop the top of the third and probably the hardest problem!

Following a string of disapointing results i have decided not to do the next round in Montauban to concentrate on the BBC in three weeks. On with the training!

Vail dude!!

2008-06-06T02:42:00.004+01:00

Had a chilled few days in vail acclimatising, getting over jet lag and being sarcastic to over friendly Americans, they really don't get it!.
Gaz had to get some oxygen.............. yes it is actually real , air in a can!

Finally get to climb tommorrow, hopefully the wall and mats will dry out after a day of rain and drizzle.

BWC - Vail

2008-06-03T13:19:00.002+01:00

Have arrived in Vail for the next round of the world cup, with a very confused body. it is currently about 6 in the morning here having been awake for the last two hours! I'm sure i'll get used to it soon enough!
The flight over seemed to go very quickly as Gaz and i were very entertained by the American version of the innovations catalogue. (we were on a plane for 10 hours!)

Lazy route setters!

2008-06-02T13:06:00.000+01:00

Finished in 21st in Grindelwald, just about the worst place to finish! should have been 20th and in the semis only the route setters didn't take some holds of the wall from the womens problem and didn't tape the out of bounds so the Slovenian lad Blaz managed to go up the womens problem and back to finish on top of the mens! Hats off to him for doing it but he shouldn't have had the option on a problem that no one else topped out.
Here's a pic of me flashing the first problem.

Stu climbed really well in the qualifiers finishing third but slipped to 16th in the semis

World cup Grindelwald

2008-05-29T17:13:00.002+01:00

Just arrived in a very damp Grindelwald for the third round of the bouldering world cup.
Qualifiers are tommorrow morning for the men and afternoon for the women, with the semi's and final on saturday

BLCC - not bad for a boulderer!

2008-05-26T13:21:00.003+01:00

Did the BLCC yesterday, not really knowing how i was going to fair, and having a bit of pressure having won the skymasters earlier this year. Qualifiers were a very tight affair but i managed to squeeze through to the final. Once again in the final saw Gaz Dew and myself get to the same hold.
So Gaz won on count back leaving Drew and myself to share the second step of the podium.
2nd place in the BLCC not bad for a boulderer!

Kilnsey - First 8a+

2008-05-21T13:15:00.001+01:00

Been to Kilnsey again today, third time in a week! Did my first 8a+ today, Grooved Arete, lovely climbing up an overhanging groove, short and bouldery so right up my street! Also flashed Dominatrix a long classic 7c considered quite stern for the grade!

World Cup Belgrade - or not

2008-05-15T13:10:00.001+01:00

Should be in Belgrade for the third round of the world cup except it has been cancelled very annoying being on a non refundable flight and not sure if we'll get any compensation. oh well off to Kilnsey with Gaz and do a few routes before the BLCC in Blackpool next weekend.

Hall - World cup rd1

2008-05-01T12:34:00.002+01:00

Climbed ok in Hall after drawing a nasty start position (only 6 hours in isolation!) but landed up 49th in a very big field (88) of wads! One of those comps where it just didn't happen, taking too many attempts to do a problem, and having a taped up finger didn't help. Still managed one of the hardest problems, although on my second go having dropped the finishing hold!

First round of the World cup

2008-04-16T17:31:00.003+01:00

Off to Austria tommorrow for the first round of the world cup in Hall near Innsbruck, hopefully my arms will be a bit more cooperative and the split in my finger will be ok.

Qualifiers are on Friday, semis and final on Saturday. You should be able to watch online at www.salzlager.at and search around a bit unless your deutsch is better than mine!

CWIF

2008-04-15T12:07:00.003+01:00

Competed in the climbing works international festival at the weekend, qualifiers went well finishing joint third and our team living up to its name coming in first, with Jordan getting a perfect score, Dan putting in a fine hungover performance being joint third with me and Leah winning the womens.

The semis didn't go so well :-( seems i'm still struggling a bit with some plague which won't go away! Topped the first problem on my second go and then got past the bonus hold on my first go on the other three but my forearms just didn't want to play, all very frustrating! landed up in 8th place.

Ohh well at least we won the team event, making me a litle bit better off!

Skymasters champion

2008-03-16T20:57:00.005Z

Won the first Skymasters challenge at the outdoor show in Birmingham. Amazing climbing through 30+ metres of roof and Kalymnos style tufas! Arrived on Saturday with no expectations and no pressure found myself in first place for Sundays final!

Then there was some pressure! Being the last out i knew that people had got close to the end but no one had topped it! My usual route tactic of go go go seemed the order of the day and get into the hands off rest in the tufas to try and recover before a sprint to the end! i have never been so pumped in my life and not fallen off! Pure adrenaline pulled me up the last moves feeling the crowd willing me to the top, i latched the finishing jug and knew i had won, amazing! the last competitor out and the only one to the top. oh and a bit richer to boot!

Check out my pumped forearms!

long time no writing!

2008-03-12T17:06:00.001Z

Not a lot been going on recently, just a bit of work and some training. Won the last round of the works comp, which i won overall so some nice piece of berghaus gear heading my way!

Made some good progress on a project in Yorkshire very frustrating being dragged around on the end of a shunt, so be good to get on it on a top rope!

Off to the outdoors show in Birmingham this weekend to compete in the Skymasters Challenge which should be a good laugh, 30m of horizontal roof madness, check it out

another fine gritstone day

2008-02-06T20:31:00.000Z

Finally the nice cold grit days have arrived! thank god for being self employed! Went to the plantation today had a really good first proper session on the ace. Got my hand over the top a few times, don't know why i didn't hold it! but there's something to get excited about. Left is a still from the video footage.

8 ball

2008-02-03T18:28:00.000Z

Nailed 8 ball today, what an amazing problem! Took a gamble on the weather and found awesome conditions at Gardoms. Check it out! shame they missed the first move!

Works comp etc

2008-01-28T17:23:00.000Z

Been a bit rubbish at writting recently mostly due to being constantly working and the none stop rain!
Was joint first in the Climbing works bouldering league on friday night, thats 3 out of 3 now, and walked away with the prize money from Percy's special problem which is always a good boost to funds! Good to still be cranking having not been training very much since November! Starting to train for the start of the world cup series starting in April.

Finally got out on some real rock at the weekend coming fustratingly close to 8 ball, just a matter of time now!

albarracin here i come!

2007-11-17T21:35:00.000Z

Yeah, fly to albarracin tommorow for a week of ripping it up(with an injured finger, brilliant!) anyway i'm sure it will be fine, coped well on Friday night at the works comp. see you all when i get back

World cup Brno

2007-11-12T20:26:00.000Z

Now back from the final round of the world cup, qualifiers went very well on friday finishing 4th. The semi's on Saturday went well finishing 8th, just a fraction from the final but my best result to date.

After a good party on saturday night we awoke to find snow falling heavily and left us wondering wether our flight home at five would happen, so not to worry too much we went off to play in the snow and wonder round the castle! Thankfully they managed to clear the runway so we could fly home.

World cup, Brno

2007-11-07T22:14:00.000Z

Heaing out to the final world cup of the season in Brno(Czech Republic). Should be a good party! Got a bit of a finger niggle, so we'll pray for slopers! Had a good session at BUK tonight despite the finger.

Deliverance

2007-11-05T08:52:00.000Z

Finally managed to do Deliverance yesterday, thought it was going to be my complete nemisis!
Should get some photos in the next few days.

test post

2007-11-02T11:46:00.000Z

check out my shrivelled beadle leg!